Fertilize your lawn with 13-13-13 fertilizer every 30 to 45 days. Water every day in hot weather unless it's raining. Mow twice weekly, making sure your lawn mower blade is sharp. From mid May through June, you can core aerate and topdress your lawn to level the yard and improve soil conditions. Apply preemergent weed killers in the fall and in early Spring.
 

WATERING:

Watering your lawn and plants is the most important part of a successful landscape maintenance program. Consistent watering during the summer months is the key to a green lawn and healthy plants. It doesn't make sense to invest money in plants, flowers and grass and not take care of them. 

Atlanta's typical red clay soil is highly compacted and does not absorb water well. Clay particles are super fine, and therefore compact tightly with little air space. Unless your soil is amended with sand and or organic matter, water does not penetrate well. Water thoroughly, but not too the point of significant runoff. Don't waste water. In 90 degree plus heat, we recommend watering every day. During 70 to 80 degree weather, every other day is adequate. Sunny days increase water evaporation increasing the need for water, while cloudy days require less irrigation. If the grass is allowed to turn grayish, or plants are wilting, it is a definite sign you have waited too long to water. 

Water in the early morning when it is less windy and the bright sun will not burn or evaporate water quickly, Do not water in the evening or late at night, as the increased wetness on plant and turf foliage can cause fungus.

HOW TO WATER:

Portable Hose Sprinklers. Time consuming and inefficient. Nevertheless, it beats not watering at all. The biggest problem here is that the best time for watering is the early morning. Watering in the evening increases your chances for fungus, a real killer of fescue grass. 

Congratulations to those of you with the fortitude to properly water your landscape while obeying the current water ban. Holding a hose on each plant for 20 seconds will adequately water each plant. 

Trees, especially larger trees, require more water. Repetitive annual droughts are slowly killing many trees. When you see your tree dying, it is generally too late too save it. Don't neglect watering your trees. They may take many years to replace. Your yard and shrubs can be replaced much more quickly.

Automatic Lawn Irrigation: The most efficient and consistent method of watering your landscape is with an underground lawn sprinkler system. A well designed system consistently applies the right amount of water to every part of the yard at the right time of day while you are spending your time doing something more important. It saves you time by efficiently watering your lawn automatically or with a push of a button. It saves you from wasting water by leaving your sprinkler running too long.

HOW OFTEN TO WATER:

Follow local water restriction guidelines. To understand the basis for watering guidelines, a little information about water absorption into the soil. The prevailing soil type for the north metro Atlanta area is Georgia red clay. Clay is superfine particles with properties similar to glue and cement. The clay binds together and compacts with virtually no air pockets. Tilled and aerated clay quickly compacts unless organic matter is added. Water does not absorb well into clay, and plant root systems tend to be shallow. Since water does not absorb, sunlight will dry the soil quickly. Therefore, frequent watering, daily or every other day, is required. 

The frequency of watering is based on evaporation. During sunny 90 degree days, it may be necessary to water every day in sunny areas. When temperatures are 72 degrees or below, water only as necessary. Pay attention! Look at the soil in your yard. If it is very dry, then water. If your soil is wet and not drying out, water less. Waterlogged soil that does not dry out will kill plants and grass. Many books on landscaping advise watering deeply, to a depth of 6 to 7 inches, then allowing plants to dry out for several days. This method only works here where plants or grass are planted in soil with a lot of organic matter added to a depth of at least 6 inches. 

We advise using the automated watering feature on your controller only during periods of consistent weather. At other times water automatically as needed or by using the manual start feature on your controller when the landscape needs watering. We recommend purchasing a rain gauge to measure rainfall amounts. Rainfall amounts of 114 inch or less are insignificant. The sprinkler system is generally only needed from mid April through October.

HOW LONG TO WATER:

As a general guideline, sprinkler zones comprised of rotor sprays ( a stream of water that moves back and forth) should water from 18 to 22 minutes. Sprinkler zones comprised of fixed sprays (a fixed misting spray of water) should water from 8 to 12 minutes. Hot sunny areas need longer duration's than shady areas. These are general guidelines. It is your responsibility to monitor the wetness of your yard. If it is too wet, decrease the watering time. If it is too dry, increase the time.

ADJUSTING THE AMOUNT OF WATER WITHIN A ZONE:

Lets say a portion of your yard is watered by one zone. Part of this yard is adequately watered, while another part receives too much or too little water. The amount of water applied by the sprinkler system can be adjusted by changing the nozzle on your sprinkler head. 

Watering needs vary depending on sun and wind exposure and soil drainage. Areas in shade and poorly drained soils which tend to stay wet longer need less water. For example, a shady area on the side of the house where the air conditioners drain needs less water than the front side of the driveway out in the full sun. Therefore, a watering zone extending from the street along the side of the driveway and along the house cannot adequately water the front by the street without over watering along the side of the house. Sometimes it is best too split a zone into two separate zones. One for the shady area and one for the sunny area. This is an extra cost at the time of installation. To keep the cost of your sprinkler system competitive, this option is usually not quoted in the cost of a sprinkler system.
 

PLANT FERTILIZATION:

Plants can be fertilized with liquid, granule, and time release granule fertilizers. Liquid fertilizers provide quick impact. Time release fertilizers are more expensive, but provide nutrients for up to nine months. What is important to know is when to fertilize, how to fertilize, and at what strength.

Over fertilization can badly burn or kill a plant. Fertilizer should be spread around the plant. It should not be dumped on the plants center, or crown. Flowering shrubs should not be fertilized prior to or during the flowers bloom period. This may curtail or eliminate the flowers bloom.

What fertilizer should you use? Fertilizer content is described in three numbers like 13- 13-13 or 5-10-5. These numbers tell you the amounts of the three primary nutrients in the fertilizer. The first number is the percentage of nitrogen (N). Nitrogen helps the plant grow more leaves and branches, while giving the leaves a healthy glow. The second number is the percentage of Phosphorous (P). 

Phosphorous encourages strong root formation and good flowering. To produce flowers and fall berries, use a type of product with a higher phosphorous ratio like 5-10-5 or 6-12-12. The third number is for potassium or potash. It promotes hardiness, disease resistance, and plant strength.

Fertilization is most important when transplanting for plant establishment and during its first year. We like a granular time release fertilizer called Osmocote. Its great on Pansies and other annuals and just about everything else. Some plants requirements for fertilizer are greater than others. A few plants react negatively to fertilization, but for most it is very beneficial.

A good fertilization schedule begins in April for most shrubs, except spring flowering shrubs. Begin their fertilization after flowering. Fertilization in February for example may push new growth which could be killed by March or early April freezes. Refertilize in late summer. Fertilizing in the heat of mid summer may overstress a shrub. This policy does not include annuals and perennials.

Plants such as Azaleas, rhododendrons and Gardenias like Miracid fertilizer. Annuals and perennials should be fertilized every 4 to 6 weeks during their growing season, Pansies like Osrnocote fertilizer, or fertilizer with "Nitrate Nitrogen", which can be absorbed on cooler weather. Yellowing leaves on a plant rnay indicate a nutrient deficiency. An application of liquid fertilizer is the quickest way to get the plants nutrients.
 

MOWING AND THATCHING:

During the growing season, mow at least weekly. During peak growing conditions (late May through early July), mow twice weekly. Make sure your lawn mower blade is sharp! The mowing height should be at 3/4" to I" for a high quality lawn. If a mowing is missed, it is usually better to cut all the way back to the regular cutting height and remove clippings. This will leave the turf brown and less attractive for a short period of time, but it is better to maintain the lower cut for long term quality. In the perfect world, the grass should be mowed frequently enough so that you never cut more than 1/2" in any one cutting.

TOPDRESSING:

Most homebuilders sod the front yard with Bermuda. Often, the job is less than perfect. Lumps, bumps and dips can be easily leveled with a process known as topdressing. Topdressing can also be used to aid in the decomposition of thatch and to reduce surface compaction. Topdressing involves spreading a thin layer of topsoil or river sand on the soil surface. The best topdressing material is topsoil mixed with sand . Topdressing rates may range from 1/2 to 2 cubic yards of material per 1,000 square feet. This produces a layer from 1/8 to 5/8 inch thick. Topdressing is best done on Bermuda lawns in mid May and June. 

Coreaerating before topdressing is also a good practice. It is important that distinct soil layers are not formed. The top dressed material is usually worked into the turf by raking. Liming and Fertilization after core aeration but prior to topdressing stimulates rapid turfgrass recovery and promotes a healthy, vigorous turf. Topdressing applied thicker than 5/8" can kill the grass underneath.
 

BERMUDA GRASS:

Bermuda is a warm season grass. It is green during the summer and buff brown in winter. It grows best in full sun and tends to thin out in partial shade. If the grass becomes thin under a maturing shade tree or other shady areas, consider covering the area with mulch rather than try to get Bermuda to grow where it will not prosper. Bermuda spreads rapidly by both above-and-below ground runners. This can make it difficult to keep it from spreading into your plant beds. Bermuda is best laid as sod and not seeded. Seeded Bermuda sends up multitudes of seed heads quickly after mowing, and is inferior to sodded Bermuda. We do not recommend seeding Bermuda.

FERTILIZATION:

Fertilize Bermuda after it has turned 50% green in the spring. Don't be tempted to fertilize any earlier, for a late freeze could wipe out the tender "forced" sprouts. Fertilization should be with a complete fertilizer such as 13-13-13 on the approximate dates below. Water the grass thoroughly after fertilization and daily for at least one week thereafter if local water restrictions permit.

Bermuda Fertilization Schedule:
April 20
May 20
July I
August 15
September 30
Keep in mind that sloped areas may lose their fertilizer in heavy rains and may need more frequent fertilization.
 

FESCUE GRASS:

Fescue is a fast growing turf grass that stays some shade of green year round. It looks its best fall through spring, but has problems trying to grow in hard soil or in full sunshine. It is usually planted from seed rather than grown from sod. 'Kentucky 31' is the original Fescue grass, but is lighter green, clumpier and less hardy than the new turf type tall Fescue. Fescue is a cool season grass and typically suffers considerable damage from fungus and brown patch in the summer. Fescue lawns need to be aerated and overseeded every fall.

FESCUE CARE AND MAINTENANCE:

Fescue should be fertilized during its season of rapid growth, from fall to early spring. You should usually apply fertilizer in September, in early November, and in mid February. Use any brand of turf fertilizer at the rate recommended on the bag. Turf Fescue looks best when mowed 2" high. In dry summers and when growing in heavy shade, mowing to 3" high helps the grass tolerate its environment. Fescue is very susceptible to fungus. If the grass stays wet for more than 12 hours, fungus may develop. Fungus is therefore more common in areas that receive no morning sun, remaining wet from the morning dew. Fescue with shallow root systems fizzles in the summer heat. Fine bladed fescues are the first too dye. Corearation, fertilization and over seeding should be done in mid September.
 

ZOYSIA GRASS:

Zoysia is a slow growing but extremely thick and durable turfgrass. It is green spring through fall, then changes to a golden-brown in winter. Because Zoysia roots and grows slowly, establishment is recommended using sod. Because of its slow growth, good shade tolerance, and a turf so dense that weed invasion is resisted, it sounds like the perfect grass. However, its strengths are also its weaknesses. Its slow growth means it is slow to recover from abuse or neglect, like irregular mowing practices, a dull mowing blade, other neglect and winter kill, especially on newly sodded lawns. Zoysia is commonly available in two varieties, Emerald and Meyers. Zoysia benefits from an underground irrigation system which provides adequate water during periods of drought. This is because Zoysia does not root as deeply as Bermuda.

MEYERS ZOYSIA:

Meyers Zoysia is medium in texture (Wider grass blades than emerald) with good color, good disease resistance, and excellent cold tolerance. Meyers Zoysia can survive temperatures below zero degrees, and is better suited north of Atlanta. Meyers Zoysia has a wider blade and is coarser in appearance than Emerald. Both grasses do best in full sun.

EMERALD ZOYSIA:

Emerald Zoysia is considered one of the finest lawn grasses. Emerald Zoysia is an extremely dense, fine textured turf of true emerald green color. Emerald is more shade tolerant than Meyers, but it is more susceptible to winter freeze damage. While all the hot climate grasses turn brown after killing frosts, small plots of emerald will maintain green color throughout most winters as far north as Atlanta in commercial areas where it is well protected and benefits from radiation heating from buildings and asphalt paving. Emerald simply cannot be neglected for long periods of time, but if fertilized once or twice annually, watered as needed and cut regularly, it makes a lawn in full sun or partial shade that is the envy of any neighborhood.

ZOYSIA CARE AND MAINTENANCE:

Zoysia does best with less rather than more fertilizer. It tends to form a layer of thatch under the green grass if too much fertilizer and water are used. Fertilize Zoysia after it has turned mostly green in the spring, and repeat in midsummer. Use any brand of turf fertilizer that contains "slow release" nitrogen, at the rate recommended on the bag. For the best appearance, Zoysias require cutting with a reel mower, periodic thinning or dethatching, and frequent irrigation. Mow the turf no higher than 1 1/2". This will help prevent thatch and cold injury.